Episode Transcript
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0:06
I'm Hugh Atchison, and this is
0:08
another kind of episode
0:11
of the Passenger. It's
0:13
been pretty weird in my industry this week yet
0:15
again kind of three and a half
0:18
weeks into this nonsense, and uh,
0:21
it's a pretty scary pandemic out
0:23
there. I equated two restaurants
0:25
just being the first line
0:28
that fell pretty quickly
0:30
because we had to to ensure public safety,
0:33
so we took the hit. The CARES
0:35
Act is going to help immensely. A lot
0:37
of us will get back open. A lot of people
0:39
just have lost interest in the industry.
0:42
That's really hard in normal
0:44
times. But as
0:46
I look at the coronavirus COVID nineteen
0:49
global cases by the Center for Systems
0:51
Science and Engineering, which is the Johns
0:53
Hopkins site that updates
0:56
UH pretty often, You've got eight d
0:58
eighty seven thousand firmed cases.
1:02
A lot of people dealing with us in different
1:04
ways. CDC is pretty much now
1:06
mandating that you probably should wear a mask. Um,
1:09
let's talk about rubber gloves, Latex
1:12
gloves. They're there for safety,
1:14
but as in restaurants, they
1:16
only work if you treat them like gloves
1:18
and your conscious of what they've touched. They
1:21
don't protect everything if you touch
1:23
a surface that's
1:26
got stuff on it, you might
1:28
as well not be wearing gloves at that point. So
1:30
you just gotta keep going to be smart. Um
1:33
we have ways uh in systems
1:36
at the restaurant right now. Empire State
1:38
South is my only restaurant that's operational doing
1:40
pretty lavish to go food. And then
1:43
a really big system of with an
1:45
amazing law firm up the street, and with the
1:47
Blank Family Foundation, we've
1:49
been feeding first responders and
1:52
a lot of people in the medical community. So
1:54
first response or first responders
1:57
being the police officers, an ambulance
1:59
and all those nine on one
2:01
response people um SO, and
2:04
then doctors and nurses and hospital
2:06
workers and all those people are on the front lines
2:08
who are right now our heroes.
2:11
They are our army, and
2:13
we need to keep them nutritionally fed. Now,
2:16
the big thing about you know, you can always deliver a
2:18
pizza. I love pizza too, but in
2:21
this time, I think people who work sixteen
2:23
to twenty hours shifts need nourishment. And
2:26
the big thing about food and what
2:28
I do every day is that we nourish
2:30
people. And that's
2:32
cooking food with heart and
2:34
it's safe and good for
2:37
them and give some energy
2:39
and spirit and that
2:41
they know is made by a human who cares about them.
2:44
And I think that's the most important thing we can do right
2:46
now. Still checking on my neighbors,
2:49
the elderly women across the street's good, gotta
2:52
some toilet paper the other day, you know, I gotta
2:54
keep them, keep people uh
2:58
having what they need. The Chinese
3:00
graduate student who's very quiet next
3:02
door, he's safe and sound check
3:05
on him every other day or so from
3:08
afar, kind of yelling into his window, very nicely
3:10
yelling, but just still yelling. It's
3:12
really interesting to me the economic
3:15
impact that chatting down the hospitality industry
3:17
has. And we don't think about the
3:20
tentacles of of an economy,
3:23
and the economy of restaurants
3:26
and hospitality is like fifteen million
3:28
employees in the United States. We account
3:30
for like four percent of GDP in the country,
3:33
so it's pretty huge. But then when you really spread
3:35
out the tentacle, it's one of the things that were really concerned
3:37
about. His farms, and a lot of the farms
3:39
that we deal with are are people we know and
3:42
people we know well in the community and around
3:44
Athens in Atlanta, and
3:46
who work really hard and the
3:49
majority of what they raise, and uh,
3:52
you know that they harvest goes to
3:54
restaurants, and so west restaurants
3:57
are dark and only buying immediate
3:59
supplies and emergency supplies to feither
4:01
people or to can make simpler to
4:03
go food. Um. Oftentimes
4:05
the farms that are uh such
4:08
amazing sustainable and organic
4:10
places, they're getting squashed
4:13
right now. So we're gonna call somebody
4:15
in a little bit um who is
4:17
a very good friend and a wonderful
4:20
human and that's Molly Chester. And
4:23
Molly runs Apricot
4:25
Lane Farm in Moore Park, California,
4:28
just over the hills north of
4:30
Los Angeles, and she and her husband
4:33
John john Chester did an amazing documentary
4:35
recently called The Biggest Little
4:37
Farm that won a ton of awards
4:39
and accolades. And it's a wonderful documentary
4:42
that you can go online and get and and
4:44
watch or rent or whatever and stream.
4:47
Um. But you should go do that because it shows
4:49
the impact and the the amount of work
4:51
that it takes to really do
4:53
do diversified farming in America today
4:56
on a small scale and be successful in it.
4:59
But Molly and On Johnson documentary
5:01
filmmaker as well, and he did the whole film himself
5:03
and Molly runs the farm with John
5:05
and they're just amazing people and
5:07
really it should be an interesting call. Let
5:10
me get Molly Chester on the phone. We're
5:12
gonna go and talk about how
5:15
this crazy pandemic is affecting
5:18
small farms that do amazing
5:28
Molly Chester, you're on the phone
5:30
from Moore Park, California. How are you, hi,
5:33
Hugh. I'm doing well. How are you? I'm
5:35
getting through days? It seems like everything
5:38
is different every day and it's like just
5:41
dealing with newfound things I've
5:43
never had to deal with before. Yeah.
5:45
No, that's the honest response, because that's
5:47
pretty much what we're doing
5:49
over here too. It's it's grueling.
5:52
Okay, let's talk about what Apricot Lane Farms
5:55
does because a lot of the listeners won't
5:57
understand the diversity involved. Um,
6:00
but they can always go watch Biggest Little Farm,
6:02
which is the most amazing documentary about the
6:04
farm, about Molly and her husband
6:06
John. But Molly, tell me about
6:08
what the farm does in the diversity
6:11
that's inherently important to you guys. Yeah.
6:14
So, um, we are two
6:16
and fourteen acre biodynamic and
6:18
organic farm and um, really,
6:21
as a sum total, it's we practice
6:24
regenerative farming, so it's looking
6:26
at our farm as an ecosystem and trying
6:28
to figure out how that we can build
6:31
fertility and create fertility
6:33
from the inside out. And
6:36
uh so, then animals become a really
6:38
big part of that because we use their
6:40
manure as fertilizer and
6:43
UM it's very very diverse,
6:46
which is kind of the key to UM
6:49
preventative with making
6:52
sure our microbes have enough diversity
6:54
to be healthy and happy.
6:56
And in that diversity, it's very complicated,
6:59
which makes a time like this a little
7:01
extra nuanced for us. So
7:04
you guys raise a lot of fruit and
7:06
originally the the area was really no for
7:08
avocados, and you've got about eight or
7:11
million different types of avocados on the property.
7:13
What's coming into harvest right
7:16
now, Well, the half season
7:18
just started, so that's a
7:20
big majority of our trees and
7:23
UM we we do those
7:25
very well. It's something that we're known for.
7:27
And really one of the keys is that
7:29
you focus on the soil,
7:31
but then you also wait to harvest them
7:34
for when they're ready, because so often they get
7:36
harvested in January, they aren't anywhere
7:38
near to the oils being developed. So
7:41
UM we wait until the very
7:43
last week in March to do that. So they
7:45
are coming in and lemons are here right
7:47
now, and we have sold out so quickly
7:50
on meat that we're going to have to face
7:53
UM some some more slaughter
7:55
to restock that, but that will
7:57
be a slow process with everything going on. Yeah,
8:00
that's interesting. It's like the
8:03
organic firms in Georgia have been to impacted
8:05
because they've lost the review of restaurants
8:07
predominantly, but I think on the other side,
8:09
they're still having vast successive farmers markets
8:11
if they're planned right. So what
8:14
initiatives there are you guys taking a farmer's markets
8:16
to ensure safety. Yeah,
8:18
that's really the
8:20
the hard part. UM. We have changed
8:24
our stands to be a um
8:27
where people walk up and they request what they
8:29
want and then we bag it up for them and
8:32
so no customers are touching the produce
8:34
and we're using gloves and keeping
8:37
it as sanitary as we possibly
8:39
can. UM. Thankfully, my
8:41
sales um manager is
8:44
a former chef, so cross
8:46
contamination and things like that come
8:48
very naturally to him, so he was
8:50
able to really look at it from that perspective
8:52
and we ended up setting the tone for other
8:55
farmers in the region who switched. There's
8:58
to that kind of white walk ups of
9:00
us as well, which was great. Yeah, I
9:02
think we're all walking Hassett plans
9:04
now, mitigating
9:06
disease at every step. Yeah, what's
9:09
what's the I mean the percentage
9:12
of restaurants sales that you had before?
9:14
I mean, what have you lost or any of them still ordering?
9:17
We actually because our farmers market operation
9:20
gained popularity so much, we UM
9:22
we ended up we don't
9:24
have a lot of restaurant sales. We have a little bit,
9:27
but we're able to redistribute that food
9:30
if needed. And UM our
9:32
farmers markets have been going strong. So
9:35
from a sales perspective, it's really UM
9:37
been okay. It's just been a huge hardship
9:40
on our team UM
9:42
because of all the different measures
9:44
we've had to put in place on the farm and it's
9:46
just it's it's scary for them.
9:49
We're managing emotions. UM
9:51
so much for all of us about how
9:53
to do this best. And then even though
9:55
we have every safety measure in place, it's
9:58
a very courageous UM team
10:00
member to work those farmers markets
10:02
because you are interacting with the public.
10:05
Yeah, in in the
10:07
realm of things that have happened to your
10:09
area in the last five years, given
10:12
droughts and uh fires
10:14
and now a pandemic
10:17
um what comes next locusts,
10:20
Oh my gosh, I know it feels like that, and
10:22
you know it is. This
10:24
is definitely for our team. It's been
10:27
the most emotionally difficult
10:29
because of all the loss that you feel.
10:31
It's just the loss of connection.
10:34
We're all people that focus
10:36
on building microbial
10:39
populations and we don't sanitize.
10:42
That's the opposite of who we are. Defense
10:44
is not something that we naturally slide
10:47
into, and so that's been very
10:49
grueling for us to figure that out. However,
10:52
the silver lining is that nature John
10:54
likes to my husband, John likes to say nature
10:57
is still open and it is
10:59
very much so. The solace that you
11:01
feel by being on a farm right now, whether
11:04
it's a bit um of optics
11:06
or not, is because
11:08
you still have people and you're still interacting. It
11:11
feels very good to go on those walks
11:13
these days, as I know everyone feels
11:15
and knows in their own homes,
11:17
and it brings you closer to
11:20
nature because there's such an appreciation for
11:22
the safety that that's providing. Right now. Yeah,
11:25
it's it is really interesting. So
11:28
in in the regular day to day operations the
11:30
farm and the biodynamic I mean, biodynamism
11:33
is a big circle. I mean it's it's
11:35
you're feeding into it to get results out of it. Um.
11:38
So what are these hurdles
11:41
that you're seeing now given the pandemic. Well,
11:45
just the fact that we've had to completely
11:47
restructure our team because we
11:49
do have animals to feed and plants
11:51
to at least water at a bare minimum,
11:54
and if the coronavirus happened
11:56
to UM, happen to one of
11:58
our team members on the farm, with
12:00
the different regulations, we'd end up having to quarantine
12:03
anyone that that person came into contact
12:05
with. So we've had to really put our
12:07
heads together and come up with a system
12:10
that's going to be implemented this coming
12:12
week, UM, where we have an A team
12:14
and a B team so that they're switching
12:16
off weeks so if we do have a challenge,
12:18
it doesn't take down everything
12:21
that's needed to just make us safe
12:23
with feeding those animals and taking care of
12:25
the trees. So that's been very
12:27
difficult and all of our forward
12:29
progress, as I'm sure everybody feels,
12:32
um we're dealing with this collective grief,
12:34
and you just can't be in a state
12:37
of UM progress
12:39
and spearheading right now. So we've
12:42
had to scale back to UM really
12:45
maintenance, and that is a loss
12:47
for us because it's springtime
12:49
right now and everything that
12:52
you know, this is go time for farmers. You
12:54
can literally feel the buzz of the earth
12:56
when spring comes. And
12:59
now we just we we don't
13:01
have the team members here. We can't focus
13:03
on the fertility in the ways that we ordinarily
13:06
would. We aren't UM able to
13:08
build more composts in the ways that we always
13:10
are, so we're going to feel the repercussions of this
13:12
for long after it's over. Yeah,
13:15
it's funny that the the team would
13:17
be I mean, because the nature
13:20
of taking care of animals is so constant. It's kind
13:22
of like it's one team, so you can't just kind of have a
13:24
breakout scenario of saying you can't
13:26
isolate one person really that easily.
13:29
I was talking to Hosanis the other day about,
13:31
you know, how this is going to go and how they deal with in Wuhan
13:34
eventually. You know, if if the pandemic gets
13:36
that bad here, then my idea
13:39
is to take all of my cooks and deliver
13:41
them supplies to their house. They each make meal
13:43
through fifty people a day, and we get those
13:46
out of the neighborhood. Somehow say because
13:49
well, because we have to unit like put
13:51
individual units, because then one
13:54
cook goes down, it's okay
13:57
that we can get them out of the chain. Um.
14:00
I think it's kind of borrowing from like terror
14:02
cells. But hey, maybe it's good organizational
14:05
spirit that they have. UM
14:07
it is, that's an interesting perspective,
14:09
and it is forcing a different
14:12
type of um patchwork
14:14
community that probably will have some
14:16
positives when we get to the other side of
14:18
this. But it's so um
14:21
isolating. I think so
14:23
too that there are some positives that come
14:25
out of it. I mean, I think that the way we think about
14:27
feeding people, the fact that I go to the
14:30
regular grocery store and see the dry
14:32
denial totally barren right now
14:34
makes me proud somewhat that maybe
14:36
America is understanding and can
14:39
cook, which is really important,
14:41
as you and I know we think that they
14:43
don't really. Jose
14:45
Andreas also said this is really interesting.
14:48
He's like, we talk a lot, and he's
14:50
an old friend, but he was he was just like you
14:52
you give timtnso blentels to an old
14:54
Italian woman with two handhocks and
14:57
they'll feed everybody. She's
14:59
like, we don't do that in America, and
15:01
I was like, yeah, I know, but I think maybe
15:04
you're being proven wrong now. So I think
15:06
that there's good things, you know. I mean, I'm
15:08
checking on my neighbor now, the
15:11
elderly woman who lives across the street, and
15:13
we've waved each other before, but now we're
15:15
on a first name basis, and we talked from a
15:18
twelve foot distance each day, and I
15:20
go and get her supplies. And I talked
15:23
to my Chinese graduate student neighbor
15:25
on the other side, who is very
15:27
quiet guy, and I was just worried
15:29
about him, so checked on him and got him some
15:32
food. And you know, so I think
15:34
that you can get this distanced
15:36
community'd be even tighter than it was
15:39
smartly. And that's really that's good.
15:43
Tell me about the success of the documentary.
15:46
That was a wonderful success and um
15:48
it so it was in twenty
15:50
some countries around the world. The coronavirus
15:53
did affect a few of the rollouts. Japan
15:56
had this beautiful launch plan and
15:58
it literally happened as
16:00
Corona started, so that put a dampener there.
16:02
But UM in the United States
16:04
it was very successful. We the
16:07
last set of tours, which now have been canceled,
16:09
so again there's kind of positive negative.
16:12
But we UM this spring we
16:14
rolled out our first couple of tours and first
16:17
couple. We have some v I P tours too, and
16:19
we put all those up on the website and we sold
16:22
it was something like eight d seventy five
16:24
tickets in seventeen minutes, so
16:27
it definitely has helped the exposure
16:29
for regenerative agriculture. The
16:32
people that are into the film are the
16:34
most wonderful group
16:36
of individuals. They're all so inspired,
16:39
so lovely, and so it's actually been quite
16:41
a joy. So people,
16:44
that's biggest little firm. And you
16:46
can get it. Where where can you stream
16:48
it? So I know it's on Hulu,
16:50
I know it's on the paid streaming services
16:53
like Amazon things like that, and I
16:56
it's not on Netflix in the United States,
16:58
it is in some other countries, but it is so
17:02
every everybody can get it. And people,
17:04
you've got a lot of time these days and
17:07
watch a great documentary that's award winning
17:09
and depicts Apricot Lane Farm, which
17:11
is one of the most beautiful places full
17:13
of beautiful things that I've ever been
17:15
to, so it's a good place to be. Well,
17:18
Molly, thanks for filling us in on
17:20
your world and how this affects you, and
17:22
we wish you good luck and best to all
17:24
your crew. Thank you very much you and best
17:27
to you guys down there in Athens too. I'm
17:30
Hugh Attriston. You're listening to The Passenger from my
17:32
Heart Radio. We'll be back after
17:34
this quick break. I'm
17:43
Hugh Atchison. This is the Passenger.
17:47
I still want to talk about other impacts that we're doing
17:49
and what you need to think about in this world
17:51
of how you help restaurants UM. A
17:53
lot of chefs have been
17:56
asking me for advice and chiming
17:58
in with different ideas, and there's a lot of sharing
18:01
on social media of what what's working and
18:03
what's not. A lot of us have put
18:05
our hearts into trying to create small to go offerings
18:08
and depending on the how many regulars
18:10
you have, how big your city is, maybe that's sustainable
18:12
and maybe it's not. For most
18:14
people, it's probably not. UM.
18:17
Selling gift certificates is is a
18:19
good way of helping restaurants out and buying
18:21
them a good way of helping up places.
18:24
Um, But I'm shying away from that a little bit because
18:26
I just don't want all the gift certificates. We use
18:28
the money to pay salary, payrolls
18:31
and um insurance and
18:33
rents and utilities and all that in the interim
18:35
and while we're closed. But I
18:37
don't want to spend all that money and then
18:39
haven't come back and gift certificates of
18:41
money that I've already spent when we reopened in
18:43
the first two weeks, because that kind of terrifies
18:45
me. Then we'd have no cash. But
18:49
I've been doing very sort of uh
18:53
I think a relatively smart thing. I'm selling
18:55
advanced caterings so people
18:58
in the next two years can set a day and
19:00
I will come to their house and cook for tend to forty
19:02
people and on their cutler and
19:05
their silver and their plates and
19:07
whatnot. With their glassware. They provide the beverage,
19:09
but I just bring all the food, and um,
19:11
my amazing chef friends
19:13
who works for me, Sam Herndon, and
19:16
I would will will cook an amazing five
19:18
course meal. And it's amazing how
19:20
benevolent people and generous people
19:22
are in these times, there's
19:25
a lot of stuff that comes out um
19:27
where people do not act as good citizens.
19:29
But man, for the most part, people
19:32
are freaking awesome and they really
19:34
rise to the challenge, because we need to rise the challenge
19:36
right now. This is a pandemic
19:39
that that we can we can squash
19:41
if we're smart. And but
19:44
it looks like it's going to take a pretty heavy toll. Um.
19:48
I the older sisters
19:50
being self quarantine right now. Um
19:53
so it lives in California. She's
19:56
got good health care, so we're
19:58
not to worry. But you know, show us
20:00
so as diabetes and uh, that's
20:03
a hard previousting condition to
20:05
to work around with something that's ah
20:08
that's got pretty sudden onset like OVID nineteen.
20:10
So but we'll keep you informed
20:12
on how that goes. I
20:15
I'm living on a positive note these days,
20:18
just try to get by, trying to support my
20:20
people. My kids came over the
20:22
other day and we hung out. They've been
20:24
actualating for their mom's house, which is like three blocks
20:26
away, but they came over with Kaitan
20:29
and has roasted chicken, hung
20:31
out talk for a while. So
20:34
it was good. You gotta feed your people, nurse
20:36
your people. You've
20:40
been listening to The Passenger. This
20:43
is the production of I Heart Radio created
20:45
by Hugh Atchison and Christopher Hassiotas,
20:48
were produced and edited by Mike Johns.
20:51
A researcher is Jescelyn Shields
20:53
and Christopher Hassiotas as our executive
20:56
producer. Special thanks to Gabrielle
20:58
Collins, Crystal Waters, and
21:00
the rest of the crew. If you like The Passenger,
21:03
leave us a review on Apple podcast It helps
21:05
other people like you. I'm the show. If
21:08
you're a local and you want to let me know
21:10
what I missed and where should go on our
21:12
next visit, Or if you've
21:14
recently been a Passenger like me and want to share
21:16
your experience, hit me up on Instagram
21:18
and Twitter at Hugh Atchison. Well
21:21
more podcasts from my Heart Radio. Use
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the I Heart Radio app, Apple Podcasts,
21:26
or wherever you listen to your favorite shows.
21:28
Thanks for listening.
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