India is one of the world’s top cotton exporters, its domestic agricultural industry dependent on cotton production. However, cotton is one of the hardest raw materials to sustainably cultivate. We explore sustainability at each stage of cotton production – from seed, to fibre, to yarn. 

Gujarati farmers highlight the challenges of cultivating local desi and kala versus genetically-modified cottons. Spinning factory managers Sandeep and Subryamanyam explain how cotton bales, produced in the neighbouring gin, are spun into yarn for international export. Factory supervisor Ila answers questions concerning gender and working conditions, and we consider the persistent imperial legacy of the modern textile industry.